On the program was two of my favourite spots in our county Skåne (Scania) – the little municipality of Mölle and Kullaberg Nature Reserve with Kullens Lighthouse.
So we met up 10am … and got a fully packed bus #220 from the bus station … same building as the train station and the ferry terminal, 5 min walk from Suzanne’s hotel room and 11 min from Landskrona with the direct train.
It takes about 60 min to Mölle and there is the is bus #202 waiting for the lighthouse and that journey takes about 15 min.
The bus was filled up with Danish hikers, 30 of them … and I’m sure their plan was to walk up the lighthouse and take the bus back to Mölle, I should have done the opposite – bus up and hike down. *smile None of them was any spring chickens. So well done to them!!!!!
We were so prepared for rain, but we were so lucky while visiting the lighthouse … sunshine, but very windy.
Because we had missed out on the ice cream the evening before … we started off with one instead.
As everything else during the summer is everything under constructions … and maintenance so was the lighthouse.
Kullen is one of the most prominent landmarks along the Swedish coastline, and with its 1000 Watt electric bulb in a huge lens-house, also the most powerful lighthouse in Scandinavia, overlooking one of the world’s most heavily travelled waters.
The lighthouse is 15 meters tall and its focal plane is located 78.5 meters above sea level making it the highest located lighthouse in Sweden. Every 5 seconds, the Kullen Lighthouse flashes white for 0.3 seconds with 27 nautical miles reach.
The lighthouse is Sweden’s highest lighthouse, built in 1561, has a breathtaking view and a dramatic history. More than 200 ships have suffered shipwreck outside the horn since the 1750s and several wrecks still remain on the seabed. We have stories about the fate and adventures of the locals, with wreckage, bear battles, tragedies and heroism. Kullens Lighthouse is also one of Sweden’s best places to spot porpoises.
Kullen is the oldest lighthouse location in Scandinavia founded 1561 by the Danish king Fredrik II. This lighthouse was a “Parrot lighthouse” with an iron casket 20 feet above the ground. 1563 there was a new stone tower with 12 candlelight as the source for light but already 1585 it was replaced with a covered lantern and from 1624 coal was used for light.
Kullaberg is a peninsula and nature reserve of land protruding into the Kattegat in Höganäs Municipality near the town of Mölle in southwest Sweden. The site in the province of Skåne is an area of considerable biodiversity supporting a number of rare species and has been designated as an Important Bird Area (IBA) in Sweden as well as a Special Protection Area (SPA). The terrain is dominated by steep cliffs rising from the sea and rocky outcrops on the ridge above, the highest elevation being Mount Håkull at 188 meters. Ridgetop vegetation includes a mixed hardwood broadleaf forest consisting of birch, beech, oak and pine trees with an understory of hawthorn, juniper, wild honeysuckle and blackthorn. Among the notable rare plants are spring vetchling, Lathyrus sphaericus.
Inhabited as early as the Stone Age, there are extant stone circles, grave mounds, ancient village remains and other archeological features. Kullaberg is administered by the Höganäs Forestry Board and the Gyllenstierna Krapperup Foundation. Kullen lighthouse, designed by architect Magnus Dahlander in 1898, is considered the brightest in Sweden, situated at the westernmost point of the reserve, guiding ships through this busy part of the Kattegat. Within this 75 square kilometre (18,500 acre) reserve are extensive hiking paths that criss-cross the ridge and provide access to dozens of beach coves nestled at the bottom of the cliff formations. (text: wikipedia.org)
Kullaberg runs like a knotted hand in one of the world’s most boat-driven sound and at the extreme horn meets the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. The beautiful scenery and the high steep cliffs that end right in the ocean have fascinated people for more than 3,000 years. Legends, myths have been inherited from generations among coasters. The coalman from the year 1220 is the man who is said to rule over the mountain, decide which ones to fall from the rocks and which ships are going to go to sleep. Kullaberg is a unique place for nature and adventure enthusiasts and is worth a long detour. There is something for everyone.
Next to the lighthouse is “Naturum Kullaberg” offers the exhibition “The Gate to Kullaberg” which shows Kullaberg’s nature reserve from heaven to sea. Around the natural environment, there are modules located, where you can guess birdlife, fungi, flowers or strange animals in the ocean.
The children’s favourite is often the saltwater aquarium where anyone who wants to touch a starfish. A very interesting place with all the history of Kullaberg and daily information about what birds you can see on the day … etc.
Like the kids, I loved the aquarium. The Naturum Kullaberg is owned by Swedish Environmental Protection Agency.
After a couple hours with loads of fresh air in our lungs and with wind-dishevelled hairstyles …. we wanted food. There is a nice cafe at the lighthouse with a stunning view, but we want to take on Mölle. We had to wait about 30 min on the bus. It only does one trip per hour and only during the summer.
Mölle is a very cute and well kept little town – around 700 people lives there the year around … in the summer it’s packed. Mölle was a lively 19th-century fishing village, some of whose stately buildings survive to the present. It was earlier and still is today an enclave of relatively affluent residents, who initially made their fortunes from fishing. There are extant two sizeable 19th-century hotels, which are perched high above the harbour.
In the latter part of the 19th century Mölle was renowned as a centre for erotic entertainment, especially mixed-sex bathing (considered marginally scandalous in that era); thus it attracted visitors from throughout Sweden as well as various parts of Europe. There was even a weekly train from Berlin to Mölle up until the First World War.
There were some tourists around, but the little harbour was nearly empty, the holidays are over now for the Swedes. The tourists that around seemed to all decided to have lunch at the “Brandstation” (Firestation) just on the edge of the sandy beach.
We enjoyed a sandwich with loads of smoked salmon and avocado, there was supposed to be a poached egg on the sandwich … but the chefs need a bit of training on that one. Had it in company with a nice chilled white wine. It was extremely windy, but we found shelter behind a glass wall.
We also did a visit to their cafe and shop, the Boathouse. Loads of goodies.
While we made our way back to the bus station we visited the harbour, but then the rain run into us for the first time.
Back in Helsingborg, we visit Kärnan -Kärnan is a medieval tower in the city centre of Helsingborg, Scania, in southern Sweden. It is the only part remaining of a larger Danish fortress which, along with the fortress Kronborg on the opposite of Øresund. Built in the 1400 century. It’s 35 meters high.
Of course was Kärnan under maintenance.
The terrace stairs that is leading up to “Kärnan” were bricked brick by brick and finished in 1903. A couple of years earlier, the architect Gustaf Améen’s proposal with terraced staircases in historical style had been awarded the winning contribution.
We didn’t visit the tower (next time) it’s supposed to be one of the world’s best tourist attractions. It was time for coffee and my feet were begging for mercy and the rain was hanging over us. It was now 6pm.
We found Wayne’s coffee shop opposite the station and Suzanne’s hotel. We Swedes have something called “Fika” … meaning “coffee break”, often with pastries. The tradition has spread through Swedish businesses around the world. “Fika” is a social institution here in Sweden. A “Fika” can take a range from 15 minutes to 45 minutes and it’s mostly taken around 10-11am or in the afternoon around 3pm. It goes back to the early 1900th century.
While we enjoyed our “Fika” a torrential rain happened … and we got a little wet as we crossed the street. It was time to say goodbye … and I jumped on a very arty train a couple of minutes later.
We booked lay-in for Sunday – and Denmark around lunch time.
“A fulfilling and successful journey begins with
a great spirit of absolute determination.”