travel diary; kirchbach – lunch in weißenkirchen in der wachau

It was easy to get back from Vienna – the commuter train to Tulln. It was Sunday so the train was nearly empty. Spotless clean and I love the red color that the seat had. It took 50 min and Robert picked me up in Sankt Andrä-Wördern, about 10 min drive up hills to the house.

Next day, Monday, my last full day and Robert took us girls to the beautiful little village of Weißenkirchen in der Wachau, along the Donau banks. It was a fair bit for him to drive, 90 min …. for lunch at one of his favorite waterholes: “Wiengut Mang

But first we had to stop by the local farmer just up the road, 10 min walk – needed to buy more apple juice, homemade of course. The farm has this little ginger cat, 22 years old. We fell in love and I think she wanted to come with me to Sweden. She was so adorable, but unfortunately, my shot of her didn’t come out that great. I was more lucky with hens and the rooster.

The entrance to the restaurant through the garden from the Donau side was breathtaking … the garden was full blooming apricot trees. Carol told me that if you visit them in the early autumn you’re allowed to eat the apricots of the trees. I LOVE apricots.

Since the year 1287, the name Mang is documented in the viticulture and the market town of Weißenkirchen. The wine tavern was opened in 1949 for the first time. Now, this is run by the eldest son of the family, Hermenegild Mang, and his partner Elisabeth. They have made a modern extension to the more traditional restaurant and building. Even if it was modern it really fitted in, very tastefully done with loads of creaky details, especially the ceiling and the chairs.

His brother Alexander Mang is the owner of the winery Hermenegild Mang. He manages 10.2 hectares of vineyards and 1.1 hectares of orchards.

The place wasn’t that busy, but the rain was hanging over the valley and Donau. I could smell it, but nothing came out of it. Otherwise, it was a pleasant day. Not cold at all. My first day without sunshine.

I had black pudding with a glass of with wine from their vineyard. The portion was MASSIVE – 12 slices of black pudding and it was served cold. Really nice, but the portion was for 4 people. And the bread was to die for. Robert asked if they had baked it themselves, but it was from the village baker which was closed on Monday. Robert was offered to buy a bread from them.

The young girl that was serving us spoke Swedish. Her father was from Sweden, but the family always lived in Vienna. So she had gone to the Swedish school in Vienna and spoke perfect Swedish. She had only worked to the place for 4 days.

Weißenkirchen in der Wachau is a small town in the Wachau valley, on the northern side of the Donau.

Weissenkirchen means “white church” and this name refers to the village′s impressive multi-purpose church, which served both as a center of worship and a fortification to protect the villagers from plundering Turks. It was originally built in the 14th century, but the defense tower was added in 1531. Similar to many other churches in Austria, the interiors are a rather unimpressive (I been told) mix of Gothic and Baroque art.

The church had a sign saying that “Jesus will see you on Sunday at 17.00pm” *smile – LOVE IT!!!

We took a walk around the village and it didn’t take a long time, such a small village. It′s the surroundings that make Weissenkirchen attractive: The Donau, the very smooth hills, and the vineyards. But the Donau wasn’t blue … more grey-green neither was the church white!!!!!!

We walked down to little railway station and along the tracks back to the village and the car.

The romantic winemaker Weißenkirchen has preserved its originality and is one of the most popular holiday destinations in the Wachau World Heritage Region. The most important wines in this part of the Wachau are Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.

Hiking around Weißenkirchen in der Wachau is very popular and we met a few – there is about 10 beautiful hiking track around the village.

There is supposed to be a ferry across the Donau that is interesting in that it has no motor or sail: it is powered by rudder set against the river current, anchored to a cable above the river. We didn’t go on the ferry. Didn’t even see it.


Robert drove along Donau Bundesstraße/B3  and through one of my favorite places in the area, Dürnstein. One of the prettiest places I visit. Famous for all their apricot products.  With the beautiful monstery Stift Dürnstein with the sky blue tower. Dürnstein is like a fairytale village. We didn’t stop this time. Next time I visit will ask him if we can’t go back.

So many pretty villages along that road.


Dürnstein was first mentioned in 1192 when, in the castle above the town, King Richard I of England was held captive by Leopold V, Duke of Austria after their dispute during the Third Crusade. The legend of Richard the Lionheart says that upon returning from the Crusades, the English King tore up the Austrian flag and refused to share his spoils of war with Leopold V.

Carol and I wanted (mostly me) wanted to visit the curly pig farm to see if there were any more newborn goat kids, some of the does were so gestating. But nothing had happened.  There was this big sheep (white) with 3 black lambs – it looked so wired, but she didn’t seem to care. 

“The black sheep are the ones you want to get to know.”
Marty Rubin

11 thoughts on “travel diary; kirchbach – lunch in weißenkirchen in der wachau

    • I love black pudding, but 12 slices !!!!!!????? Black pudding is really one of our national dishes … but ours are sweeter and we eat it fried with pan-fried potatoes and lingon berries of course. First time I had it cold, and it was really nice … but the size of dish. The mustard was excellent. Jo, it’s a really pretty part – haven’t seen much more of Austria.
      Looked into Salzburg yesterday, but it takes 2,5 hours with train from Vienna ….and 24 departures per day. So that has gone on my do-it-list too.

      • We visited Salzburg when James was a little chap and we were staying in the Salzkammergut. Heavens, it feels a lifetime ago 🙂 🙂

      • I heard so much great about Salzburg … have to do something about it next time I visit Vienna. Next year … just now I plan a trip back to Dubai, Hong Kong, and Macau in end of March next year, Anna-Liisa’s 75th birthday next year.

      • Oh, wow! That’s a good one to celebrate. 🙂 🙂 I’m desperate to see the Azores next year. This year is slipping by. I have a trip to Poland in June, and then Lisa in Nottingham.

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